So I nailed scrap lumber all over the place and we used it for that first winter. Lined the sauna with vapor barrier and had a sauna because we needed one! and all the plastic drooped bad. I didn't need a permit when I built mine and there were no forums so I bought 2 cases of 12 inch spikes, a sledge, and a chainsaw and built a building with a wall across the middle on the inside separating the sauna and the change room. Every building code uses the same information and you better comply or you don't get the permit. I know what the book says and it is factually correct. I have the time now.īut that whole R value thing irks me. I am going to build one again soon after all this time and I am going to do it the same way except I will take my time and make it a lot nicer, and bigger. We forgot to fill inside the homemade forms after tamping so the floor ended up a foot thick. The cement was mixed in big wheel barrows with people carrying buckets of water from the lake. Some of our friends helped initially when we poured the pad. I built a 10x10 sauna with my wife back in 1980. No shortcuts shortcuts bite you in the a$$ later.Īll good advice but I would argue a few points. If trouble free longevity is a desired goal, start with a proper full perimeter foundation footing. A poorly executed timber frame can fail as readily as a poorly executed stick frame, IMO. The quality of the initial construction is also important, be it sticks, timbers, logs, CMU or stone. Longevity is derived, to a great degree, from the maintenance the structure receives over its life. Quoting: RifrafI was wondering if the 6圆 structure would stand the test of time more so than standard stick building? I am using 8x8 and splining between the logs and chinking the space left from the hewn corners. I like all heavy wood construction and think I finally found my answer in Piece Sur Piece. I have no started yet but in the planning and brain racking stage. Thanks Cook, I actually just saw an ad on craigslist, a local logger is selling lots of cedar pretty cheap. I would like to build something that will still be standing and usable without much upkeep even for the grandchildren(my oldest child is only 13 ) I was also wonder if I could just expand the outer size of the 6圆 log plan to permit me to fur in 2x4 inner walls and insulate them if needed later on. I was wondering if the 6圆 structure would stand the test of time more so than standard stick building? I think a mini12 stove would keep it warm anyway, given its incredibly small size. Even with the thermal breaks caused by the 2x4 wall studs the insulated 2x4 wall has a better R-value). Your 2x4 walls in the converted shed have a higher R-value than a 6圆 timber. And 5 1/2 inches is not a lot of wood or R-value. Heat still leaks out or in at a rate appropriate to the R-value. The mass of the log does not help as much as some might think. Softwood is only 1.2 to 1.4 R-value per inch of thickness. Running a planer down the center of the face that will be on the bottom can help with that. That can be a problem when trying to stack them square and solid. Timbers will often have a slightly convex face down the length. I've used them on timber retaining walls. I'm not a log builder but IIRC there is rubber or foam gasket material that is used between the logs to seal tje space. PT as the bottom sill only, I would think. is that the right way to go about it ? If the inside were treated it would be hard to finish properly I thought kiln dried would be best, and just treat the side facing out. Well I have access to kiln dried and treated the same type you could get from a home depot type store. Quoting: RifrafI have access to cheap 6圆s.Īre they green or kiln dried? Surfaced or rough?
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